Archive for December, 2007

Early departure to Phnom Penh and a very busy day…

Thursday, December 27th, 2007

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11/5/07 

An early morning wake-up and breakfast at 5am? Not real hungry at that time of day but a coffee to get started and off we go to mild early morning traffic to the airport. Our guide takes our tickets and passports and all we have to do is linger around and all is arranged and we are at the gate and on the plane for the short flight to Phnom Penh

Cambodia. We arrive on time and are met by our Cambodian guide who gets us through the airport and outside to the hustle and bustle of this busy city of 2 million. I’ve been to

Cambodia a number of times previously and each time the energy of this city increases. The airport has been upgraded and you certainly get the idea that this is an emerging economy. We are shuttled to the Raffles Hotel which is our home for the next few days. It is a beautiful building from the French colonial period.

There are many books written about the history of

Cambodia and especially of the history during the period 1975-1979. This was the time of the Khmer Rouge and Pol Pot when 25% of the total population of

Cambodia was eliminated…2 Million people. Our first speaker was Mu Sochua, Secretary General of the opposition Sam Rainsy Party, Nobel Prize candidate and leader of Civil Society in

Cambodia. She lived through the Khmer Rouge times and related how not 1 family went unaffected by this genocide. After 1979, the population distribution was 85% female and 15% male so the family and societal structure was completely destroyed. The symbol of the Sam Rainsy Party is the candle…a light in the darkness and one strong message of the party is “Never Forget”…sound familiar? A large percentage of the population was born after the Khmer Rouge and the story must be told. One charge of the party is to promote women’s involvement in political change and civil society. The effect of the genocide is ongoing since the nature of it killed trust and respect in the Cambodian society. Without political power, it is very difficult to effect change and social justice. In this historically patriarchal society, domestic violence is a problem. After the war, women were the majority and now have major roles in the workforce. The party teaches conflict resolution skills and tools to help modernize the “code” of women’s behavior. Amazingly, in this military run government, many of the top officials are former Khmer Rouge leaders. Corruption is a huge problem as are land rights, abuse of the poor, and heritage preservation. Vote buying is common. Fifty percent of children are registered in schools and $500,000,000.00 is lost to corruption instead of social services. A farmer (80% of the population) makes $0.75/day, a teacher $1/day, a civil servant $75/month and the minimum wage (factory workers) is $50/month. Only 15% of high school graduates find employment. What the Sam Rainsy party professes is transformative leadership that is transparent and non corrupt. For me, I take anything that a politician says with several salt grains but if she and her party are true to their word, I wish them all the luck in the world because the Cambodian people are certainly deserving of peace, security, and justice.

We then met with Arun Sothea, a holocaust survivor of the Cambodian genocide and an activist with CVCD, Cambodian Volunteers for Community Development. This soft spoken young man related to us his life as a young boy during the Khmer Rouge. I had read several true accounts of these times and the consistency of his story to those I had read was powerful, but the way in which he is giving back is inspirational. Arun’s childhood was broken in many ways and he wanted to do something that would help today’s youth to help assure that the genocide of the 70’s never happens again. CVCD was formed by street youth in 1992 and at that time there were 500 volunteers. Their activities included:

  1. Urban clean-up
  2. Tree planting
  3. Computer training
  4. Community development

CVCD now has 60,000 volunteers!

After lunch, we went to the S21 Museum. This museum is a memorial to the genocide of the Khmer Rouge regime.

Cambodia has a very sad history that has major impact to today. The museum highlights “man’s inhumanity to man” through torture, killing, and any and every kind of horrendous means, many beyond one’s imagination. This is a very haunting yet necessary place…a reminder that just 30 years ago, brutality of this scale went pretty much unabated…

These meetings lasted till late afternoon and we were able to walk to the central market and have a quick look-see prior to our evening program.

Ruth Messenger, President of AJWS spoke to us in the evening about

Darfur. The conflict in

Darfur began in 1993 between the Hutu and Tutsi tribes. The Darfur region is in western Sudan and is the size of

Texas. AJWS was a first responder and took 11 months to respond. Eighty percent of AJWS activities center on humanitarian relief and 20% on advocacy. The relief is in the form of clean water, medical clinics, educational resources in the camps and generally filling holes that the international relief agencies have trouble filling.

A terrible statistic of

Darfur is that EVERY woman in the refugee camps has been raped. AJWS fulfills rape training and counseling services through its partner agencies.

AJWS has been very active in the divestment campaign in Darfur/Sudan. Two and one half million people are displaced and 4 million people need outside support. In Ruth’s words,

Darfur is “A Problem from Hell”.

Overall, this was a very emotional, depressing, yet hopeful day. As a Jew, I have always felt it is important to “Never Forget”. Today reinforced that in that genocide keeps occurring, the places change but the cruelty of humankind persists. Greed, corruption and power fuel hideous behavior and it cannot go on without active and forceful resistance. I again count my blessings that I have not had to endure what so many in the world endure every day of their lives and I feel the responsibility to do my small part to insure that my children live in a fair and peaceful world.

Thai AIDS Treatment Action Group and Senator Umphakorn educate us about the problems…

Wednesday, December 19th, 2007

11/4/07 

We start the day by visiting the THAI AIDS TREATMENT ACTION GROUP (TTAG) and Karen and Ott who we had met at our Shabbat dinner. AJWS was the first funder of this organization in 2002. We learned a brief history of AIDS in

Thailand. The epicenter of AIDS in 1988 was in the north of

Thailand and there was little awareness of AIDS at that time. The epidemic started with injecting drug users and up to 40% of this group was infected in the 1st year. Currently, 50% of injecting drug users are infected with HIV/AIDS and this group is the only one experiencing no reduction in new infections. The epidemic spread to trafficked sex workers who were made up of impoverished girls and women from very large families. Burmese girls were then brought in because the Thai were thought to be infected. They were duped into prostitution. After a long period of decline in HIV/AIDS cases, there is an increase in occurrences due primarily to a repressive abstinence based approach to dealing with HIV/AIDS. Ott is the founder of TTAG and is a former drug user and is HIV positive. (I have attached his Opening Plenary Speech at the International AIDS Conference for his full background). Today, TTAG is the leader in treatment access. TTAG advocates for ARV (anti retroviral) drug availability and to reduce the expense of these drugs. ARV drugs are brought in from

India illegally due to lack of local supply and excessive cost of the local drugs. Asked why this was done…”to save the lives of my friends”. TTAG also advocates for better policies, develops, builds and trains leaders and works to develop and train health education and harm prevention projects. These are accomplished by working with underserved areas, working more effectively with hospitals and increasing awareness of options and services available. One of the primary goals of TTAG is to assure that the group is self sufficient and working and functioning as a group, i.e. activity planning. They believe that given proper resources and opportunity, people can and will implement their own vision and develop. One of the biggest problems is the lack of involvement in service and program development. They receive no support or help from the government and therefore, change must come from the movement. The Pharma lobby in the

US keeps ARV generic drugs from being readily accessible and affordable. It’s the same story…money and corruption as is found around the world. Self determination is the most sustainable response to this situation where in

Thailand alone, 660,000 are living with HIV/AIDS and 550,000 have already died. This is a David and Goliath battle with the drug companies.

Former Thai Senator John Umphakorn then spoke to us from the governmental/political/social perspective. His current work deals primarily with advancing the concerns of marginalized citizens. He also spoke about the traditions of philanthropy in

Thailand which he stated were strong as relates to donations to the temples. Interestingly, but not surprising is that there is a great deal of corruption in the temples and by the monks. There is a religious hierarchy …political Buddhism as state nationalism. The local system is one of patronage and corruption and there is little political ideology. Vote buying is a common occurrence.

Once again I was very impressed by the empowerment, dedication and energy of this grassroots organization. The determination with which this group works against all odds is inspirational.

 

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A day off in Bangkok - Shabbat Sawadee

Wednesday, December 19th, 2007

11/3/07

Shabbat…a day of rest and relaxation and taking care of some business. I went with several of the ladies from the study tour to some clothing shops and tailors and after purchasing several silk kimonos for my wife and daughter had to make my exit…I’m still convinced that as far as shopping goes, a guy takes care of business and is ready for flight while women can spend days…. I hailed a Tuk-Tuk and explored the city and relied on my driver to take me to the appropriate places for me to acquire gifts and souvenirs for friends and family. I must say that the drivers have a definite agenda and want to take you to specific shopping venues where they apparently get some kind of kickback for bringing their customers. I found that I had to be friendly but firm to keep the driver on my agenda and not his agenda and go to the places that I and not he wanted to go. Driving around in the Tuk-Tuk is a great way to see Bangkok and to experience all the sights, sounds and smells of the city. After this exploration, I only hoped that I had made the right selections…confirmation for which would only be known upon my return home. The group got together again in the evening for Havdallah and then off to dinner.

Early departure for Bangkok, grantee BURMA ISSUES and Shabbat

Saturday, December 1st, 2007

11/2/2007 

We have an early morning start for the airport…no straggling allowed since our flight leaves when it leaves and we are headed for the sprawling city of

Bangkok. While I am not much of a group traveler and am partial to loose schedules and playing it by ear when it comes to my travels, I do appreciate that everything is done for us from the time our bags are loaded on the bus until we arrive in

Bangkok. We just walk onto the plane and have no worries about anything. It is a short 1 hour flight and we are in

Bangkok.

Bangkok is big, congested, busy and full of energy. The traffic is intense and you have many cars, busses, taxis, tuk-tuks, motorbikes, and people on the streets. It takes time to travel even short distances. For Americans, the Asian cities offer quite a contrast to those at home. (My

New York friends may disagree since NYC and a few other large American cities are an exception). There are people, lots of people outside and on the streets. There is energy and the cities are alive. My wife Richie, when she first arrived in

America, made this observation. “Where are all the people?”

America looks like a lonely place. Without a car, it’s difficult to get around in America, but here, you have only to step out your door and you have numerous options of getting around…ride on the back of a motorcycle, take a tuk-tuk, mass transit, taxi, and my favorite…walking. At the airport, we have a bus waiting and we board and travel to today’s partner visit. We meet with AJWS grantee BURMA ISSUES (BI).

BURMA ISSUES was founded in 1990 and although it is based in Thailand, BI concentrates its work on the empowerment of marginalized ethnic communities living in

Burma’s war zones. BI’s philosophy is that by engaging these communities in peacemaking and conflict transformation they can better build a lasting and just peace. BI is a grassroots organization that works directly to develop and work with and develop grassroots efforts and organizations inside of

Burma on economic, social, and political issues.

BI also works with the international community to advocate using 3 strategies:

  1. Grassroots education – deals with human rights education and teaching people to document events and their own stories from inside Burma. This documentation is used in publications and media.
  2. Literacy and education – teaching the teachers who will go back into Burma. The subjects are Burmese, Karen, social studies, geography, ethics and self confidence. They are also coached in making impromptu speeches and how to make spot computations and generally how to develop new schools, village education, evaluation methods and progress reports.
  3. Children’s education project – deals with building and developing good community members, cultural pride and awareness through collection of stories and folk tales. They have published a children’s storybook. They are also building school libraries with books brought in from the outside.

IDP’s generally do not have schooling and educational opportunities. The number 1 priority is FOOD so schooling is discouraged by parents who need their children’s help in the fields. Even if they go to school, it is a necessity to help in the fields after school. There is a general shortage of educational materials and teaching skills and BI provides these to the IDP’s.

There are 10 ethnic groups in

Burma. The Central military junta discourages ethnic identity. BI produces materials and encourages ethnic pride. The Karen ethnic group which comprises about 7% of the population lives both in the lowlands and in the hill areas. They are either Buddhist or Christian. There is a difference between the lowland and hill people ethnic people in how they look at education. The hill tribes generally are concerned with survival while the lowland people have been more integrated into Burmese society. The NGO’s such as BI are creating greater awareness of the importance of education. The Karen’s have been relocated since 1975 because of the military junta’s policy of divide and conquer. There was another mass relocation after the 1988 uprisings and with the building of the UNOCAL gas pipelines. These and other events have created IDP’s who flee to the jungles looking for freedom…they hide, they live, and are in a constant search for FOOD. They have little or no access to healthcare and education as books and materials are unavailable and expensive. I keep coming back to the meaning of happiness…

Burma Issues was yet another example of the drive, motivation and commitment of these grassroots leaders. The problems here have been ongoing for decades and generations and change is soooo slow, yet these leaders continue and expand their work building a long sought after society through non-violent change. ALL people have dreams and desires…

We check into our hotel that afternoon and have lunch to rejuvenate ourselves for the rest of the afternoon off. Short initial explorations of

Bangkok and readying for Shabbat dinner. Our Shabbat dinner was lovely. We used a thoughtful service developed by AJWS and which helped bring focus to what we had experienced thus far. We were provided with great tasting challah courtesy of the Bangkok Chabad. The Jewish population of

Thailand is 300 so it seems they get everywhere. We were joined for dinner by Karen and Ott, 2 leaders of the Thai AIDS treatment Action Group (TTAG), with who we would meet with after our Shabbat day off on Sunday.